Micro-Needling…things to know

What is it and can estheticians administer it?

It is skin rejuvenation through collagen activation and estheticians can administer it with limitations.

The process is by no means new but it has gained global recognition because it is used by and financially in reach of, both the a fluent and non a fluent consumer. Certain brands produce amazing results if used in conjunction with active ingredients designed for the process and the post procedure protocols are followed by the client.

In an industry froth with creams, lotions, light therapies, scrapings and countless other home improvement products, it is a prerequisite for an esthetician to research and perform their due diligence before taking on any new service for their spa or salon. Because of the appeared simplicity of the procedure, the market is flooded with home use items ordered through the mail and trained on YouTube and Internet misinformation.

Do it Yourself Device

Micro-Device

Using a controllable device that will allow precise depth management and uniform coverage, the actual process is that of creating thousands of consistent microscopic perforations in the skin. The body perceives these tiny wounds as an attack and thus invokes its natural repair mechanism of sending collagen and elastin to the sites to x the damage. Over time the infusion of the body’s collagen and elastin smooth out the wrinkles and fine lines from the inside out and restores youthful skin, naturally.

One must recognize that the process is invasive and therein lies the area of contention. The question becomes, is it a medical procedure or is it a cosmetic procedure? The Food and Drug Administration states that any device with needles protruding longer than a depth of 0.3 mm is a Class 2 or 3 medical device used for medical procedures.

Some try to transcend their eld and use it to attempt to repair medical issues. It should be kept in mind that if the skin has a medical condition then it should be looked after by a medical doctor with a medical device. Rule of thumb, estheticians work in the epidermis and doctors work in the dermis.

Home Products

Home use products such as hand held rollers do not control the depth of the needles nor the pressures exerted and are able to cause serious damage to the skin. While they have been in use for years with mixed results, they are now illegal and not approved by the FDA for sale..

One product on the market that o er safety blended with results is Dermatude, using the Meta-Therapy technique (Medical Esthetic Tissue Activation). The system is ideal for the esthetician as it allows them to stay within the boundaries of safety of 0.3 mm which keeps it in the dermis area. The system also employs a sharks tooth needle design constructed of polycarbonate versus steel which allows minute punctures in the skin rather than to tear it.

With the relative newness of this age old procedure it has been determined that an essential key for success and professional performance is a quality training program commensurate with the proper amount of time needed to master the procedural technique. This has been a point of contention in the industry considering that there are no regulations on this matter. A training program must teach pressure, motion, direction, and depth. It should be a hands- on program and the student should experience the procedure on themselves. It should encompass direction of use and the effects of the active ingredients used in the procedures and how they relate to improving certain skin imperfections. Unlike topical moisturizers that simply sit on the surface of the skin, micro-perforation is improving the skin’s quality, naturally, from the inside out.

Conclusion

Properly administered, both the short term and the long term natural results are quite remarkable, to the point of the treatment being addictive, to some.

If you would like to learn more about micro-needling, join Saskia Kusters. She is from the Netherlands, the developer and founder of Dermatude’s META-Therapy. She is in Canada for a special presentation at Micro-Pigmentation Centre on the morning of July 18th in Mississauga, Ontario.