Permanent make-up artist and instructor, Founder of Baltic Brows Academy, distributor of NPM INTERNATIONAL Lithuania. Here to talk about Ombre Brows.
I’m really happy now I got opportunity to talk about my technique Ombre brows in SPA CANADA MAGAZINE. For this I would thank my previous studies and profession in architecture. My path to permanent make-up world was very complicated. I was born and grew up in little town of Lithuania called Mažeikiai. Drawing has always my passion – it included many art contests and achievements since childhood.
I was really talented and successful in arts and mathematics, so the combination of both – humanities and science was quite extraordinary characteristic. The teacher told me: “You must use this as mostly people are good in humanities or good in science but combination of this is amazingly useful”. So this led me to choose my studies of architecture in the Kaunas University of Technology, Cathedral of Architecture and Engineering. This was not easy – day after day I suffered from criticism of famous architects, this was the way of teaching. I am not complaining about it, as this is the style I use to teach my students in my permanent make-up trainings. This constructive criticism allows my students to reach their highest potential.
The first two years in my major we studied anatomy by drawing them. Every bone, every muscle, wrinkles, skin tones, shadows, reliefs to feel the proportions. In creating buildings,the most important thing is to see proportions and always improve aesthetic sense. I completed my bachelor degree and got job in famous architecture company that could be only a dream for just a young graduate.I was really happy because the beginning of profession started in the best field.
For two years I was working as an architect – creating 3D visualizations of houses, public buildings with various computer programs. The office gave me an opportunity to continue my studies and get Masters degree of architecture. Those two years were quite hard for me as working and studying together is not easy. Talent, challenging studies and hard work nurtured the artistic soul but over time I realized that in Lithuanian economic situation artistry remained only in second place, because many people just wanted you to create buildings which were as cheap as possible to built and lacked art. This predestined choosing beauty area where the artistry and aesthetic sense are the most important.
I specialize in permanent makeup and tricopigmentation and I am very happy to see the customers’ smiles for a revised and corrected their shortcomings. I didn’t forget my previous profession – many things I adjusted in PMU world. I think that permanent make up without art is not possible. When we are training people, we must improve their art skills. For me it was easier to enter permanent makeup world as I already had art skills in drawing people, gaining proportions, shadowing, mixing colors, movements of the hand… Of course, on one side it’s very different, on the other – it can be very similar, just depends on our attitude and perception to this. Just up to a few months ago I got amazing job opportunity in UAE, Dubai as an architect, I chose permanent makeup.
This is my story for now, and my future will lead me wherever my destiny guides.
On 2015 I established Baltic Brows Trainings Academy and now more and more students come to us learn microblading or machine methods – Ombre brows, eyeshadows, full lips, tricopigmentation. Mostly we are doing trainings in Lithuania, Estonia, Finland, Norway, United Kingdom, United States. Our trainings is accredited by Associated Beauty Therapists (ABT) and Towergates in UK. Now we are arranging courses in Brazil and Australia.
I strongly believe that between make-up and permanent make-up is very “thin layer”. What I mean – that today permanent make up is getting similar to more like natural daily makeup, not so bright and visible as the trend was before 5 years. Now clients want very natural effect and have the opportunity to change their desires and refresh it after 1-1.5 years.
Ombre brows is the process of a blending of color using either brow tint or pencil. Typically, to appear bolder, the brow is made to look darker at the arch. The soft color transition defines the brows, but adds depth. As microblading (Strokes technique with manual tool) came like a storm to permanent make-up world, I think Ombre brows is the next generation. Especially that most of clients wants brighter healed effect than strokes technique. Ombre brows can be done:
A. Using permanent makeup machine
B. Using manual tool with special shading needles. In this case you don’t need to buy a machine. You just need a manual handle and special blades.
Of course for both methods you need proper trainings. This technique it’s not very difficult – just very accurate and precise. Both methods I mentioned before are very different in performing hand movements but the result is very similar. Manual method takes more time and the small “dots” are more visible. Both treatments start the same : allergic test, medical Health Form( You have to ask about all possible contraindications for permanent makeup), consent (as this technique is “connection” with a blood), make-up removal, taking photos, drawing the shape).
Anesthetics? No, I don’t use them before the treatment as otherwise I can’t feel the skin. After the anesthesia it becomes very tough, sometimes slippery. I’m artist and the skin is my canvas where I do art… Second, the procedure is much faster. The painful part is only 2-3 minutes till I make some shape shadow. Most of my clients say me that Ombre procedure is not painful. So I believe we have longer painful moments in our life and these minutes are running fastly.
For eyebrows I use our academy inorganic pigments line – Baltic. Most colours I use- caramel mix plus toffee, cocoa mix + toffee and sometimes ebony for the darkest part. I work with Npm International released Oron 60 device. I love it because of variety of needles, their precision and silent work. The speed I choose – 140-170 depending on skin type. But this method can be done will all permanent makeup machines – here is important technique.
For Ombre brows I choose different needles. Mostly I like to work with 1 point (more accurate works) or 5 points (faster).
Working. This consists of 3 steps as I call layers. 1st layer – all movements has to be light, not aggressive. The main and the most difficult thing is not to make outlines. Everything has to be very soft. You have to swing needle from 45 degrees untill 90 degrees. The skin has to be stretched as this is easier to inject pigment. Everything has to be done accurately and slowly without pressure. I hold the needle perpendicularly and insert the pigment by movement – forward & back changing the perpendicular corner to 45 degrees.
You don’t have to be afraid to make outline in the bottom. There can and must be some line effect as this makes bigger contrast. You have to be careful of outlines on the top of shape. When all shape is done, we need to make the beginning. Here the movement is slightly different – don’t use any pressure. I clean everything and I apply strong liquid type anesthetic. This lidocain based anesthetic works very quickly – about 2-3 minutes and we can work again. What does it help? After those three passes the inserted pigment is not clearly seen. Don’t be afraid that after cleaning the shape, you almost see nothing. When anesthesia starts to work, the pigments gets brighter. For me it works for whole procedure.
We can continue again with the same color. As now you don’t have to be careful to clean the shape, you can clean pigment after each movement. I do both brows with the same color just I son’t touch the very top of brows. Again, you have to be careful not to do too much because if you make outlines you will damage Ombre effect. Depending on the skin type, I make again from 3 till 5 passes. It’s not possible to count and set the same number to all clients. Every situation is different. Here we have normal skin type. For oily skin you have to insert pigments much more as sebum removes much of pigment in healing process.
I change the prepared pigment to a darker color. Here we make some contrast. We work only on the bottom line and slightly retouch it. I do a few passes till I see a desired result. My movements are more courageous and I’m not afraid to make some line. We have to work till the middle of brows. The result we got is 40 % brighter than it will be healed. This method takes more time of treatment but results are also incredible. The technique is very different from machine method but less painful. Its very easy to learn this especially for people already trained in microblading. So here we use manual handle for shading and special needles.
Slope curved and flat needles are very similar, just rounded are slightly different in result. When using rounded needles, the “dots” are more visible.
To make Ombre brows effect again we make 3 layers – the beginning is always lighter, the bottom is the darkest and the top of the brow is very softly disappearing like the beginning. The technique here is called – tapping. You just put the needle to handle and tap the skin very precisely. Here you can see some examples.
Explaining aftercare & correction
It’s very important to understand that well-done works can and will be damaged by bad aftercare. I always warn my clients that healing result depends on their selves. These 10 days after the procedure are really important. I never agree with dry healing as I tried it and that failed to me. My recommendations: on the first day each hour gently wipe eyebrows with sterile water to avoid big scabs. Then apply a thin layer of Bephanten Plus cream. On the second and all other days avoid water, just apply a thin layer of cream 3 times a day.
I always do correction not after 1 month but after 2 months. I noticed that then skin is fully regenerated and less bleeding. Ombre brows, when healed, have very natural effect. It seems like daily make-up. During the correction process, I make the effect stronger just repeating the layers. Of course if a client wants a brighter result. I do this technique mostly for the younger generation. My clients who are older in age are satisfied with the results from their first appointment.
The aim of this article is to show that permanent make-up can be very natural, soft and attractive even using shadow technique. Ombre brows technique seems to be very simple. But to achieve good masterpiece with soft disappearing lines and good result (not only straight after), it has to consist of things as I mentioned before. I hope to see my fellow artists embrace this magnificent profession and art and remain enthusiastic! Think outside of the box, be a trendsetter, be unique.
To learn more please visit Rita’s website!